X65.8791 Weaving practice sampler

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Weaving practice sampler
Coastal Wari culture, south coast of Peru
Middle Horizon, 600-1000 CE
Cotton warp and weft and dyed camelid-hair weft; plain weave with supplementary-weft float patterning
24 x 23cm
Fowler Museum at UCLA. Gift of the Wellcome Trust. X65.8791.


Four selvages are preserved, as well as loom cords. 

This small four-selvaged cloth was made as a practice piece or sampler by a weaver learning to create geometric designs in postivie and negative versions. Created row by row with supplementary, dyed camelid-hair yarns, the diamond pattern on the left side is made with red lines against a white background, while that on the right side is made with white lines against a red background. Having gained expertise with this sampler, the weaver could then apply this skill to creating the Wari-style square panels with decorated corners.

Source: Elena Phipps, The Peruvian Four-Selvaged Cloth. Ancient Threads / New Directions. Fowler Museum Textile Series, No. 12, Los Angeles, 2013