Through photomurals and video visits, Passport to Paradise
will offer glimpses of the domes, towers, elaborated façades,
and labyrinthine layout of a building complex in Senegal
that is made entirely of straw, reed, and sticks. The structures
are aesthetically stunning. As first encountered by the
curators in 1994 (and illustrated in the photographs to
the right), straw, reeds, and sticks of yellow and red hues
were bundled with baling wire and juxtaposed in harmonious
patterns across walls rising to seemingly perfect domes
of straw. Triangular and bar motifs marched across the walls.
The compound is the inspired creation of a holy man (marabout)
named Serigne Omar Sy, accomplished by a group of young
men living a monastic life with him. Amadu Bamba has come
to Serigne Sy in dreams, explaining that he should recognize
and venerate the reed pen (qalam) with which one
writes the Word of God. Sufi poetry bears many references
to a writer's intimate relationship with the pen, for with
diligence and devotion, one can become "a pen in the hand
of God." Serigne Sy and his men have realized this sense
through what can be justly called an architecture of the
Word. The fretwork of triangles and other forms are holy
"words," Serigne Sy says, in an arabesque that conveys the
rhythms and intentions of writing. The layout of the 1994
compound was a geomantic device ("magic square") that concentrated
healing energy toward its central chamber. As construction
proceeded, repairs were needed for earlier portions, making
the place a monument to Bamba's philosophy of never-ending
work for the glory of God. Serigne Sy is a controversial
man, however, and the compound has been burned to the ground
twice by those opposed to his visionary practices. The place's
vulnerability must be an important aspect of its message,
and without entering such an unfortunate fray, visitors
to Passport to Paradise can easily appreciate the spiritual
and artistic achievements of this wondrous architecture
of the Word. Most intellectually staggering of all is the
fact that Serigne Sy and his followers live in a sacred
text as literally as can be imagined.